APlus Diamonds

Diamond Color

Diamonds are judged primarily based on a primary set of 4 values, called the 4 Cs. These are cut, clarity, carat and, of course, color. While it is true that colorless diamonds are usually worth the most money, the primary grade scale, ranging from D to Z, was invented by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) to gauge the transparency of a diamond. Therefore, the closer a diamond is to a D grade on the color scale, the more ‘pure’ it is considered. Diamond color affects its price and as a diamond closes towards the Z end of the grade scale, it has a yellow or brownish tint – sometimes referred to as a ‘dirty diamond’. These more colored stones are less valuable, but in some instances, color can actually increase the price. Colors that increase a price, due to their rarity, are called ‘fancy colors’ and these are quite sought after.

Since the human eye can detect color almost as well as sparkle, caused by a diamond’s cut, the color is a major factor that will determine the beauty of a diamond. Grade D is absolutely colorless and extremely rare; grades E and F are both very rare, having have traces of color that could only be seen by a gemologist wearing a magnifying lens; G and H grades have trace levels of color that is almost impossible to detect without a side by side comparison with a more colorless stone; grades I and J have a warm tone to them that is barely visible; and the rest of the spectrum from K through Z have increasingly higher amounts of ‘yellowing’ that is considered undesirable. It is important to note that when set in the right piece of jewelry, even lower graded stones can be attractive. However, a stone cannot be graded for color after it is set in jewelry so one must take care to obtain loose diamonds if the goal is to have them graded effectively.

The colorless diamonds are sometimes referred to as white diamonds and while they are the most sought after in some respects, not everyone prefers them. Diamond color can be shown in all the colors of the rainbow including shades such as storm grey, canary yellow, tropical green, sea blue, cherry blossom pink, violet purple, fiery orange, crimson red and even a mocha like shade of brown. Some of the world’s most famous diamonds such as the enormous 45 carat Hope Diamond, a gray-blue diamond, and the Persian Darya-I-Nur (Sea of Light), a sparkling pink diamond weighing over 182 carats mounted, are more valuable than even colorless diamonds. 

When it comes to color, it is important to consider whether one is seeking a traditional value in the clear white diamonds or if a particular shade would be better appreciated. Certain specialist dealers do focus on fancy color diamonds so that market always has plenty of opportunities for serious buyers.

Tags: diamond color, diamond color guide, diamond colour, diamond colour guide

Diamond Certificates

In the diamond trade, there are many aspects that help to determine the worth of any given diamond and in order to keep up with these aspects, Diamond Certificates are created. These are also known as Diamond Grading Reports, a term used by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the most advanced gem lab in the world. The GIA is not the only place in the world that analyzes and rates gems, but since they have some of the most impressive technology on Earth enabling them to examine precious stones, they are certainly seen as the foremost experts in the gem trade. The organization has pointed out that the use of the word ‘certified’ needs to be carefully considered because it is crucial that consumers do not buy a gem that is merely endorsed by a dealer rather than carefully analyzed in an appropriate laboratory setting.

The purpose of all Diamond Certificates is to essentially describe the diamond itself by explaining its strong points as well as any flaws that the stone may have. To do this, a gemological lab will use different instruments to measure and otherwise investigate the jewel so that they can describe its condition for the person requesting the certificate. Experienced Diamond Graders are the people who create the certificates and they practice a skill that takes many years to master. They have been trained to thoroughly check any diamonds for the most minute of details in order to determine what the stones could be worth to those purchasing them. It is very important to have an independent gemological expert examine any stone you buy or intend to buy because if your certificate comes from the jeweler you bought the diamond from then it could, of course, be subject to a level of favoritism that may slant in favor of a higher price. The same is true in reverse if you are looking to sell a diamond.

It is important never to purchase a diamond that does not have a certificate because otherwise there is no real way to tell the worth of the stone since most details that lower its value are either barely visible or entirely invisible to the naked eye. You need an independent expert to verify its quality. All of the world’s most famous diamonds in the world have their own Diamond Certificates and this includes such renowned gems as The Tiffany, The Incomparable, The Millennium Star, The Hope Diamond, The Premiere Rose and The Heart of Eternity.

Two things that you will find on all Diamond Certificates are a number and a name of the lab that scrutinized your stone. Firstly, you want to make sure that you have either heard of the lab in question or that research proves the lab exists and is actually qualified to judge diamonds. Frauds exist in diamond trade as in any other area of business, so be cautious and sensible. The Certificate Number is the unique number given to your diamond by the lab that examined it. If you ever have questions, you should be able to contact the lab and use this number to reference the jewel so that they can give you an extra information or simply confirm their appraisal of it. On a Diamond Grading Report issued by the GIA, you will find a laser inscription of the GIA Report’s number as an added security measure.

The certificates themselves also feature plenty of other information such as the cut and shape of your diamond. The arrangement of the facets is referred to as the ‘cutting style’ and examples of what you might see include: Princess, Emerald, Step, Marquise, Brilliant and Mixed, which indicates various styles of cut were combined to  create the stone. Shapes can vary from Oval or Pear to Round or even Heart. In combination, on Diamond Certificates, you might see a stone defined as Round Brilliant or Heart Princess.

The measurements of your diamond will also be shown on its paperwork and this is normally calculated in millimeters. A micrometer is the tool used to take the measurements and it is accurate within one hundredth of a millimeter. Depending on the shape, the measurements are calculated differently. The more fancy types of shapes are calculated by multiplying the diamond’s length by its width and its depth. For round stones, the calculations are determined by subtracting the maximum diameter from the minimum diameter and multiplying that sum by the stone’s depth. The size of a diamond is measured with a digital scale accurate to one hundredth of a carat.

Both the color and clarity of a diamond are determined in the lab setting by comparing the gem to an array of diamonds laid up beneath a special type of lighting that helps to emphasize the points being examined. When it comes to color, the grades range from Z being least desirable up to D which is most sought after level of color. Stones with a rating below Z are considered to be showcasing ‘Fancy Colors’ and can be valuable in their own way due to these shades. Clarity, on the other hand, uses a completely different scale that goes from worst to best: I3, I2, I1, S12, S11, VS2, VS1, VVS2, VVS1, all the way up to IF, the highest grade for clarity that a diamond can receive. Irregularities on the surface of a stone, along with any natural inclusions within it, are examined using a Stereo Microscope. Fluorescence is an additional measurement that is gauged by testing the way that the stone reacts to long wave ultraviolet radiation. To some, a strong Fluorescence is considered a negative value. 

Finish, Polish and Symmetry are three other aspects of a grading that will be displayed on Diamond Certificates. These points all place judgment on the skill of the stone cutter themselves. Very evenly placed facets on a stone with an excellent Polish are said to have a high Finish. The Polish rating describes the level of skill and effort applied by the diamond cutter in making the stone shine, where as the stone’s Symmetry describes its facets and how precisely they are arranged to reflect the desired appearance of ‘mirroring’ one another by being properly placed and of equal size.

Along with all of these factors, Diamond Certificates will also include a graphical illustration of the stone called a Plot. Since all diamonds are as unique as snowflakes or fingerprints, the Grader at the gem lab can use this Plot to verify a stone they are shown is the same as the stone shown on the certificate. Plots use green ink to show external characteristics such as a cut, but red is used to show internal details within the stone. Your certificate should have a key to the symbols used on it for identifiers like minor errors in cutting or other issues. 

While the GIA’s Diamond Grading Reports show a picture of the diamond that explains its unique Proportions, other Diamond Certificates will have specific sections just for this information. The depth shown is determined as a percentage, measured from cutlet to table and this value is relative to the diamond’s width. The largest facet, which is what the viewer primarily looks at from above the stone, is crucial in determining the worth of the stone’s cut. The cutlet, it is the narrow end of the stone that is intended to help it keep from chipping. The final aspect included on some certificates is called the Girdle. This is the area that divides the top part of the stone, called the crown, from the bottom part of the stone, known as the pavilion. This aspect is described in terms of a range since it can vary around the diamond itself. Sometimes the Girdle is laser inscribed with messages, particularly if the diamond is a gift. 

Lastly, many comments generally appear on these documents as the Grader attempts to explain all the various intricacies of each stone and what makes that stone truly unique. Diamond Certificates, you should keep in mind, do not give a value for the stone. They are merely used to identify and record each diamond and give an appraiser a general idea of what they might be worth.

Tags: diamond grading reports, diamonds certificates, gemological institute of america

Diamond Clarity

Of the many different factors that must be calculated in order to ascertain the value of any given diamond, one of the most crucial is diamond clarity. The clarity of a diamond is graded based upon its inclusion of certain things that take away from the naked eye’s ability to see through the diamond as one would a piece of transparent glass. Inclusion, as a term, refers to both items or features included within the stone itself, as well as what are called blemishes. Both inclusions and blemishes will lower the diamond’s value so it is important to understand these and how they affect a given gem. The general clarity of a diamond is measured by using a 10x loupe, a type of magnifying glass that helps jewelers spot things about a gem that would not be possible using the naked eye.

It is understandable that any natural gem might have things included within it that are not for the better, visually speaking. Since a diamond’s value is mostly visual beauty, it makes sense that these inclusions and blemishes would reduce its overall worth. Naturally formed diamonds, as with most things found in nature, almost never have a flawless level of diamond clarity. To make a diamond, carbon is compressed at incredible amounts of pressure within the earth, so if anything at all gets in with the carbon then it is bound to be in the diamond, as well. This can include bubbles, fractures or matter that is not actual the actual diamond mineral, all of these are considered inclusions. Blemishes, on the other hand, are chips, scratches or pits that are many times the result of the cutting process. Around the girdle is the typical place to find blemishes.

When one wants to understand the level of diamond clarity present within a given stone, there is a chart that is used in the diamond trade which is a key to the grades given out by those who work with these stones. While it appears complex, reading it over once should make things clearer:

I1 through I3
These three grades (I1, I2, I3) are all visible without magnification. The I stands for Included and all three of these grades are stones that are not considered of good quality. One should take care to avoid such diamonds as their clarity is so poor that they do not make for a good purchase. Most people will be able to spot the flaws, as well, and this could cause the owner some embarrassment.

SI1 and SI2
These two grades mean that Slight Inclusions can be easily spotted under magnification set to level 10X.

VS1 and VS2 
Under 10X magnification, it is possible to view the inclusions present within diamonds given either of these grades. VS stands for Very Slight inclusions.

VVS1 and VVS2
It is difficult to find the inclusions featured within a diamond of either of these two grades, even with 10X magnification. VVS stands for Very, Very Slight inclusions.

IF
This is very rare and the abbreviation stands for Internally Flawless. This means the diamond has no internal flaws, but may feature blemishes on its surface.

F
With the F grade, the stone has no inclusions within or without. It is completely flawless and excruciatingly rare, too.

While a perfect F diamond might seem the most desirable, it is important to remember that until the I grades, a diamond has perfect clarity to the naked eye, its inclusions only being visible under a 10X loupe. This means that diamonds of VVS, VS and IF grades are all remarkable and often stunning. The diamond clarity of an S grade diamond is still very high in terms of what it offers to a piece of jewelry because it is what gemologists refer to as “eye clean”, meaning its flaws are not visible without a magnifying lens. 

The most important thing to remember is that unless a person purchases an I grade diamond, the flaws are only going to detract from the diamond’s value, not its appearance.

Tags: diamond clarity, diamond grades